When assessing footwear, we usually notice the upper material first. A finished pair, however, consists of more than what can be seen from the outside. Reinforcing components, lining, insole components, the sole and adhesive bonds all work within the construction. Each component has its own function, and the result depends on how correctly they are combined.
For KOHANI, natural leather is an important starting material, but it cannot by itself guarantee a correct fit, stable shape or accurate assembly. Quality is created by the complete production system: construction, the last, cutting, stitching, forming, lasting, reinforcing materials, adhesive technology and process control.
The upper material is important, but it does not work alone
Even a high-quality upper material cannot compensate for an incorrectly engineered last, inconsistent cutting or errors during forming. KOHANI therefore treats materials as part of a particular construction rather than as an isolated characteristic.
The upper, lining, main insole, sockliner and sole materials may differ from one model to another. Material composition, reinforcement stiffness and care instructions must not be copied automatically between models. The exact specifications of a particular pair should be checked on its product page.
How natural leather is prepared for footwear assembly
Natural leather is not uniform. Different areas of one hide may vary in density, stretch, fibre direction and natural surface characteristics. Working with it therefore requires both accurate equipment and the professional judgement of a specialist.
KOHANI uses automated cutting for natural leather. It helps to:
- reproduce component outlines accurately;
- maintain the specified dimensions;
- improve symmetry between the right and left shoes;
- reduce random variation within a production batch;
- use the material more efficiently.
Automated cutting does not replace the specialist. Before cutting begins, the properties of the leather, its direction of stretch and the placement of natural characteristics must be assessed. Equipment provides precision; a person decides how that precision should be applied to the material.
Hidden thermoplastic reinforcing materials
A finished shoe contains components that customers do not normally see. They help form and reinforce selected areas, particularly the toe and heel sections.
KOHANI uses modern thermoplastic materials for this purpose. Under heat, they take the required shape; after cooling, they hold it.
These components help control:
- heel stability;
- toe shape;
- retention of the model’s silhouette;
- the construction’s resistance to deformation;
- the behaviour of the footwear during wear.
Why the same parameters cannot be used for every model
A reinforcing component that is too soft will not hold the intended shape. One that is too rigid may cause discomfort. The density, thickness and elasticity of thermoplastic materials are therefore selected for the particular construction.
The footwear category, shape of the last, properties of the leather, presence of a lining and characteristics of the sole all affect how a reinforcement should work. A specification from one model should therefore not be applied automatically to the entire range.
How the material interacts with the last and machine lasting
During lasting, the stitched upper gains volume and takes the shape of the last. The material must be distributed with the correct tension: insufficient tension may cause creasing and an unstable shape, while excessive tension may deform the material or place it under unnecessary stress.
KOHANI uses machine lasting. Its parameters are selected according to the thickness and elasticity of the leather, model construction, last shape, lining, reinforcing components and characteristics of the sole.
Material therefore cannot be assessed separately from the construction. Its properties must work with the geometry of the last and the technology used to form the upper.
The adhesive system and material compatibility
An adhesive bond is another part of working with materials. Its quality depends not only on the name of the adhesive but also on surface preparation, component compatibility, even application, drying time, temperature, pressure and final setting parameters.
KOHANI uses water-based adhesive systems, including latex formulations, for its main bonding operations. Organic-solvent-based adhesives are not used in these operations.
A water base does not, however, make a bond reliable automatically. The surfaces must be prepared correctly and the specified process parameters must be followed to achieve a consistent result.
Read more in our article “Water-Based Adhesive Systems in KOHANI Footwear Production”.
How materials are managed in production
KOHANI uses an ERP system to manage production processes and data. It links models, specifications, materials, production orders, inventory data, the movement of work in progress, finished output and production costs.
Digital records help show which materials are required for a particular order, track their movement and compare the actual result with the production plan.
Quality control is carried out at different stages. Among other factors, the team checks material compatibility, bond quality, symmetry between the two shoes, shape stability, stitching quality and conformity with the approved sample.
What to check on a specific model’s product page
When choosing footwear, customers should not rely solely on a general description of the production process. The product page should provide the actual characteristics of the model, including:
- upper material;
- lining material;
- main insole and sockliner materials;
- sole material;
- construction and fit characteristics;
- care recommendations for the stated material.
It is also important to measure the foot correctly and review the model’s fit guidance. See our guide on how to measure your feet and choose a size.
Materials as part of the KOHANI production system
KOHANI’s approach is not to judge quality by one visible component. A material must be cut accurately, combined with an appropriate last, formed under controlled tension, reinforced in the required areas and bonded to compatible components under defined process conditions.
Read more about the equipment, lasts, machine lasting and process controls in how KOHANI builds footwear quality. General information about the brand and its own manufacturing facility is available on the About KOHANI page.
Frequently Asked Questions About Materials in KOHANI Footwear
Does natural leather guarantee footwear quality?
No. Natural leather is an important starting material, but the result also depends on the last, construction, cutting, stitching, reinforcing components, lasting, adhesive technology and production control.
What materials help footwear retain its shape?
KOHANI uses modern thermoplastic materials to form and reinforce selected areas, particularly the toe and heel sections.
Are the same reinforcing materials used in every model?
The same characteristics should not be applied to the entire range. The density, thickness and elasticity of reinforcing components are selected for the particular construction.
How is natural leather cut in production?
KOHANI uses automated cutting to reproduce component geometry accurately and improve symmetry between the two shoes. Before cutting, a specialist assesses the properties and natural characteristics of the material.
Why is material compatibility important?
Materials must work as one construction. The quality of an adhesive bond, for example, depends on surface compatibility and preparation as well as temperature, pressure, drying and final setting parameters.
Where can I find the exact material composition of a model?
The actual upper, lining, insole and sole materials should be checked on the relevant product page. These specifications cannot be inferred from another model or from a general description of the production process.
