In the footwear market, “natural leather” is often presented as universal proof of quality. Yet the origin of the material alone cannot guarantee a comfortable fit, stable shape, accurate assembly or durability.

The same leather can be used to make two very different pairs. One may fit correctly, retain its geometry and remain neat after extended wear. Another may quickly lose its shape, rub the foot or deform.

The difference lies not only in the material. It also lies in the construction of the footwear and in how precisely the production process is managed.

Quality as a controlled system

For KOHANI, quality is a repeatable system that includes:

  • a specialised last;
  • the correct upper construction;
  • accurate cutting;
  • consistent stitching;
  • component forming;
  • machine lasting;
  • modern reinforcing materials;
  • a controlled adhesive process;
  • compliance with technological parameters;
  • quality control at several stages.

Specialised lasts rather than one universal mass-market last

The last is the internal architecture of a shoe. It defines the toe shape, instep volume, heel position, width, balance and overall fit of the model.

KOHANI does not use one anonymous mass-market last as a universal foundation for the entire range. Lasts are selected and adapted according to the footwear category, model construction, toe shape, sole height, properties of the leather and intended fit.

Loafers, sneakers, shoes, ankle boots and boots require different geometry. Even visually similar models may have different volumes and distribute pressure differently.

Working with the last allows us to control not only the external silhouette but also how the footwear feels on the foot.

KOHANI does not position everyday footwear as medical or orthopaedic footwear. Our aim is to create correctly engineered shoes with a considered fit and a stable construction.

Automated cutting of natural leather

Natural leather is not uniform. Different areas of one hide vary in density, stretch, fibre direction and natural surface characteristics.

KOHANI uses automated cutting in its production. It helps reproduce component outlines accurately, maintain dimensions, reduce random variation and achieve better symmetry between the right and left half-pairs.

Automated cutting:

  • makes component geometry repeatable;
  • reduces dependence on manual precision;
  • helps use material more efficiently;
  • reduces variation within a production batch;
  • speeds up the transition from sample to serial production.

Automation does not remove the need for a qualified specialist. Before cutting, the properties of the leather, its natural characteristics and direction of stretch must be assessed. Technology provides precision; a person decides where and how that precision should be applied.

Approximately 90% of the sewing equipment is Dürkopp Adler

Upper stitching is one of the most sensitive production stages. Straight seams are only part of the task: stable material feeding, accurate joining, correct allowances and freedom from deformation are also essential.

Approximately 90% of the sewing equipment used in KOHANI production consists of industrial machines made by the German brand Dürkopp Adler.

The stability of an industrial sewing machine affects:

  • stitch length and consistency;
  • the accuracy of joined components;
  • the neatness of complex stitched areas;
  • controlled feeding of materials with different densities;
  • predictability within a production batch.

Expensive equipment alone cannot guarantee quality. Correct settings, suitable needles and threads, maintenance, technical instructions and qualified operators are all required. Equipment is therefore part of a single production system, not a substitute for the skill of the team.

Machine lasting and stable geometry

Lasting is the stage at which the stitched upper gains volume and takes the shape of the last.

The material must be distributed over the last with the correct tension. Insufficient tension may cause creasing and an unstable shape; excessive tension may deform the material or place it under unnecessary stress.

KOHANI uses machine lasting to control material tension more precisely and reproduce the intended geometry from pair to pair. This is particularly important in serial production: quality must apply not only to the reference sample but to every pair in the batch.

Lasting parameters are selected according to the thickness and elasticity of the leather, the model construction, the shape of the last, the lining, reinforcing components and the properties of the sole.

Modern thermoplastic materials

The construction contains components that customers do not normally see, yet these components help the toe and heel areas retain their geometry.

KOHANI uses modern thermoplastic materials to form and reinforce selected areas of the footwear. Under heat, these materials take the required shape; after cooling, they hold it.

A component that is too soft will not retain the shape, while one that is too rigid may cause discomfort. Density, thickness and elasticity are therefore selected for the specific construction.

Thermoplastic materials help control heel stability, toe shape, silhouette retention, resistance to deformation and the behaviour of the footwear during wear.

Read the detailed guide “Materials in KOHANI Footwear: Visible and Hidden Parts of the Construction”.

Water-based adhesive systems

The quality of an adhesive bond depends on more than the name of the adhesive. Surface preparation, drying time, temperature, pressure, material compatibility and final setting parameters all matter.

KOHANI uses water-based adhesive systems, including latex formulations, for its main adhesive operations. Organic-solvent-based adhesives are not used in these operations.

This helps reduce the use of volatile organic compounds, decrease strong chemical odours in the working area, create a cleaner production environment and apply modern water-dispersion technologies.

A water base does not make a bond reliable automatically. The surfaces must be prepared correctly, the adhesive applied evenly, and the drying, pressure and setting parameters observed.

Read more about the process parameters in “Water-Based Adhesive Systems in KOHANI Footwear Production”.

ERP in production management

KOHANI uses an ERP system to manage production processes and data. It links models and their versions, sizes and colours, material specifications, production orders, inventory, the movement of materials and work in progress, technological stages, finished production, actual cost and production variances.

ERP does not stitch shoes or replace the technologist. Its purpose is to make production manageable. The system shows which materials are required, where a batch is in the process, where a shortage has arisen, which operations have been completed and how the actual outcome differs from the plan.

Quality control does not begin at the end

A final inspection of the completed pair is essential, but it cannot correct an error introduced during construction design, material selection or cutting. KOHANI therefore builds quality control into the production process.

The checks cover construction accuracy, material compatibility, bond quality, symmetry of half-pairs, shape stability, stitching quality, surface condition and conformity with the approved sample.

For KOHANI, quality means the ability to reproduce the intended result throughout a production batch, not to create a single flawless display pair.

Automation and people

A technology-based production facility is not a people-free factory. Footwear still includes operations that require experience, visual judgement, sensitivity to the material and a professional decision.

Where equipment, standards or digital records can stabilise a result, KOHANI uses them. People make the decisions. Equipment helps reproduce them accurately. ERP connects individual operations into a manageable process.

Read more about KOHANI, and see our practical guide on how to measure your feet and choose a size.

Frequently Asked Questions About KOHANI Production

Where is KOHANI footwear manufactured?

KOHANI footwear is manufactured in Ukraine at the brand’s own production facility. The team manages model development, construction, material selection and the main manufacturing processes.

Does natural leather guarantee high quality?

No. Natural leather is an important starting material, but quality also depends on the last, construction, cutting, stitching, reinforcing components, lasting, adhesive technology and production control.

What kind of lasts does KOHANI use?

KOHANI uses specialised, non-mass-market lasts selected and adapted for different footwear categories and constructions. A single universal last is not used for the entire range.

What is machine lasting?

Lasting is the operation during which the upper is formed over the last. Machine lasting helps control material tension and reproduce the intended geometry consistently across a production run.

What sewing equipment is used?

Approximately 90% of KOHANI’s sewing equipment consists of industrial machines made by the German brand Dürkopp Adler.

Is automated cutting used?

Yes. It helps reproduce component outlines accurately, improve symmetry between the two shoes in each pair and reduce random variation within a batch.

What materials help footwear retain its shape?

Modern thermoplastic materials are used to form and reinforce selected areas, particularly the toe and heel areas.

What adhesives are used?

Water-based adhesive systems, including latex formulations, are used in the main bonding operations. Organic-solvent-based adhesives are not used in these operations.

Is the footwear entirely handmade?

Production combines the professional work of specialists with industrial equipment. Automated or specialised equipment is used where the technology improves precision and repeatability.

Why does production need an ERP system?

ERP helps manage models, specifications, materials, production orders, inventory, work in progress, output and production costs.

How is quality controlled?

Quality control is performed at different stages — from sample development and cutting through to lasting, assembly and final finishing.