Most customers assess footwear by its appearance, material and size. Yet one of the main elements that determines how a model fits cannot be seen inside the finished pair.

It is the shoe last.

The upper is formed around the last. It defines the internal volume, toe shape, heel position, instep height, width and overall balance of the model.

This is why a “size 38” label does not mean that two pairs will fit in the same way. Size describes only one part of the geometry.

Why one universal last cannot solve every task

Sneakers, loafers, pumps, ankle boots and boots hold the foot in different ways. They have different sole heights, toe shapes, degrees of coverage and requirements for heel support.

Fit is also influenced by:

  • the thickness and elasticity of the leather;
  • the presence and thickness of a lining;
  • the vamp construction;
  • the way the footwear is fastened;
  • the sole shape;
  • the height of the heel or platform;
  • reinforcing materials.

KOHANI therefore does not build its range around one universal mass-market last. We use specialised lasts selected and adapted for specific categories and constructions.

Toe shape is more than a design choice

A pointed, square, almond-shaped or rounded toe is seen as a stylistic decision, but it also affects the internal geometry.

A visually narrow toe does not necessarily have to compress the toes. A correctly designed last can create an elongated silhouette by providing free space in front of the toes rather than reducing the functional volume around the foot.

Conversely, a model that looks wide is not always comfortable if the volume is distributed incorrectly across the width and instep.

Heel and instep

Footwear may correspond to the length of the foot but still fail to hold the heel or place pressure on the instep.

Heel position depends on a combination of:

  • last geometry;
  • the shape of the rear section;
  • quarter height;
  • heel counter construction;
  • lining thickness;
  • the lasting process.

Instep volume also cannot be assessed from the size number alone. Different models therefore require model-specific fitting recommendations.

Natural leather cannot correct an unsuitable fit

Leather may adapt slightly in width, but it cannot:

  • increase the internal length;
  • change the heel position;
  • correct an unsuitable balance;
  • compensate for excessive pressure over the instep;
  • completely change the geometry of the toe area.

The advice that “leather will stretch” is not a universal solution. A good model should fit correctly during the initial try-on.

Before choosing a pair, see our guide on how to measure your feet and choose a size. Read about KOHANI production technologies in how KOHANI builds footwear quality.